Sonia Jaulin, Kaempff-Kohler’s cheesemonger, has had a varied, comprehensive, and enriching career path. Originally from Western France, she was fortunate to spend a large part of her life between Vendée and Poitou-Charentes. From a very young age, during the summer season, Sonia began working with farm producers and selling cheese at markets.
“I loved it,” she tells us, “but later, I found myself in mass retail as a cheese manager. There, the focus was more on management and turnover and less on the product. After a while, it suited me less; I needed more independence, so I set up as an independent cheesemonger. Ultimately, life and opportunities led me to Luxembourg.”
What makes a master cheesemonger a good master cheesemonger?
“‘Master’ is a very big word, and I don’t claim that title for myself. For me, a master cheesemonger is either a MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) or a person who makes (and ages) cheese. Personally, even with 30 years of experience, I’m still learning every day. But it’s true that my expertise and passion for the product and the terroir have made me an expert with a real passion for raw milk farm cheeses from small productions. I love sharing this passion and unearthing exceptional products, sometimes difficult to sell, but in Luxembourg, customers are very receptive and enjoy discovering.
Being a good cheesemonger means, above all, loving your product, taking care of it, and wanting to perpetuate the tradition and livelihood of small producers.
Ultimately, our profession is also that of an advisor, so that the customer can have a memorable gustatory and olfactory experience.
A cheesemonger must love all cheeses, without, of course, having to deny their personal preferences.”
A profession that requires continuous learning and follow-up.
“Yes, it’s a profession that is learned with time, patience, and a lot of practice. You don’t become a self-taught cheesemonger in a month. You obviously have to love cheese and be curious. Professional journals and the Internet are full of information; it’s a goldmine for learning. For several years now, a CAP (vocational training certificate) in cheesemaking has also been offered.
Personally, I stay informed and improve my skills by visiting trade shows, suppliers, and producers. There, you learn everything you need to know about new products and the latest trends.”
At Kaempff-Kohler’s cheese shop, customers can discover over 300 cheese varieties throughout the year. How does the cheesemonger make her selections?
“People trust me, so I indulge myself to ensure every customer makes a culinary discovery. Products vary according to the seasons. In spring, for example, we have a very wide selection of goat cheeses, mainly organic and farm-produced raw milk varieties.
Currently, I’m thinking more about raclettes and fondues, and this year, with more space, we’ll have an exceptional selection, including traditional Swiss alpine raclettes, farm-produced raclettes from Franche-Comté, but also more creative raclettes.
As for fondue, our traditional ‘moitié-moitié’ fondue is universally popular, not to mention vacherins and Mont-d’Or!”
Generally, customers prefer hard cheeses, and here in Luxembourg, preferences lean towards Swiss cheeses.”
Let’s talk about mold! Sonia smiles…
“Ah yes, molds: if French customers eat noble mold without hesitation, that’s not necessarily the case in Luxembourg. But with the right explanations, we can highlight the value of natural mold. Let’s not forget that raw milk cheese is a living product. While Roquefort mold scares almost no one, the mold found on Corsican cheeses or goat cheeses is, let’s say, a little more unsettling for some. That’s when our expertise comes in to reassure the consumer.”
What is your ambition for Kaempff-Kohler’s cheese shop – what are the future prospects?
A brief moment of reflection, but Sonia is not short of ideas…
“Why not a second cheese shop and a cheese creation that we wouldn’t find anywhere else, with a finishing touch using a Luxembourgish alcohol, like a blackcurrant liqueur or an apple juice?”
This is certainly an interesting matter to follow, and finally, the crucial question…
What is your favorite cheese?
“Extremely difficult question… I’ll choose two to make it easier for myself.
On one hand, I’m a big fan of aged Beaufort, with its yellow, melting paste, and Morbier aged 60 days, preferably, with its distinct taste and very complex aromas depending on the tasting period…
But I also love very dry or very creamy goat cheeses, the intensity of Époisses de Bourgogne, or the subtlety of Curé Nantais rubbed with Muscadet, a cheese from my childhood. The essential Camembert de Normandie is also among them… not to mention Roquefort, Fourme d’Ambert…”
She only wanted to name two, but as you’ll have understood, Sonia knew how to give the right answer to the trick question:
“In fact, as a good cheesemonger, I love all cheeses without exception!”
#cheese #cheeseshop #kaempff-Kohler #artisancheeses #rawmilk